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Issue #1 - References, Yes or no? - (10 Sept 2026)

Do all artists have references and inspirations, or do the "greats" not use them?

There are surely those who take pride in having "not a single" reference, just as there are those who brag about having countless inspirations. Either way, when it comes to selling your art, marketing inevitably comes into play, and claiming that your work is "not contaminated by references" or, on the contrary, saying that it is "enriched and fortified by countless references from all fields" carries a similar value.

In my opinion, it is only necessary to have a minimum of reference and inspiration; anything extra is just that, extra, and can be better or worse for your work. Your inspirations or references don’t necessarily have to come from your own artistic field; in fact, I think that in some cases, if you only reference or draw inspiration from the same artistic niche, artistic expression can turn into a kind of inbred expression. It is certainly not the most common thing, but I think it is the most enriching thing for an art: the act of drawing inspiration as an artist from a field radically different from your own: a tailor from music, a sculptor from dance, or a musician from cooking. In my experience, every artist who has left a mark on my life has always drawn inspiration from a field different from the one they practice.

It is also important to know the origins and the history of the art you are trying to develop; it is something that should under no circumstances be left aside, since a minimum of knowledge is always necessary. You cannot create any recipe, basic or groundbreaking, without knowing that certain ingredients are not edible and that someone already documented them and did that meticulous work; there is no need for you to go testing each one again just to potentially lose yourself in minutiae and rob time from your creation, or even poison yourself. It is important to use the foundations laid down by our predecessors to be able to build solid work with no cracks in its structural elements. This does not mean that experimentation cannot occasionally reach fundamental levels; it does not mean that from time to time we don’t want to play with the very foundations of our artistic expression, but that should be the pinch of cumin in the stew: no one eats the entire spice jar, right?

Although if we take the principle that nothing is ever new, having a deep knowledge of the artists in your field and of all relevant references can keep you from repeating work already done by another artist. Spontaneous ideas repeat themselves even without ever having had contact with the "original" work, and by keeping those references present, you can circumnavigate them and arrive at different places.

I am not entirely sure if the above is true, or if it is instead better to capture every spontaneous idea that comes to you without inspiration necessarily stemming from your artistic field, hoping that something novel will always emerge by trusting the micro-peculiarities of each person and that entropy will make your work intrinsically and genuinely different from that of the rest of the artists in your field.

Having no references can be simpler or more complicated, depending on how you look at it. In the world we live in, having no visual or auditory inputs becomes almost impossible: advertising is increasingly invasive, social media puts things in front of your eyes whether you like it or not, music is no longer something we have to pay for to consume, and the rise of streaming platforms makes watching series and movies increasingly accessible as a trivial pastime. We eat, shower, and even shit with YouTube videos, music from your Spotify "station," or a series, and we call it "white noise." Perhaps references and inspiration are, in a certain way, being forced upon us in many cases.

There are two types of people in this matter: the ones who do not stubbornly interest themselves in any kind of art and its minutiae, and the ones who do. Those of the first type know in detail every sphere of the creative aspect of each work they consume: the director, the composer, their inspirations, the medium through which the work was distributed, the artist's character, the year or era into which their work fits, and they can even tell what kind of work they are likely to deliver in the future. Then there are those who have no interest in almost anything that is heavily produced; they are artists who live life contemplatively and take references from more everyday matters: a sunset, a sunrise, the details of nature, the corner bakery, their family, etc. In many respects (and for me, it is), this can be considered the purest type of what would define an artist: contemplation of the mundane, introspection, and original work.

I said there were 2 types, but I think, and cannot help but include, a third: there is an artist who sits in the middle, neither at one extreme nor the other, who can find balance. Their interest may focus on something very specific or on a very wide range, but they always keep a certain distance from the reference work and artist so as not to fall into that "pedantry" of knowing the given name of the artist's mother because... well, he is a renowned artist. They look at things from a distance and position themselves in the most advantageous spot for themselves, taking as a reference every small snippet of the referenced artist's complete body of work that can best enrich their own, and then continuing with their own process.

In any case, whether you have clear inspirations or references or not, whether you like to dig more or less deeply into your favorite artists, whether you reflect your references in your work more or less, there will always be someone who says "so-and-so already did that" or "very good, but you are copying artist X," even if you have never had contact with that artist or their work, and that is not necessarily bad for you, nor is it malicious on the part of the person pointing it out. The exact same thing will happen with this publication: there will always be someone who read someone who in turn read another person who had already put forward one or several of the ideas I am presenting here.

In my particular case, I am an artist of the third type; my references are there, but I try not to dig too deep, and I make it clear that I am nowhere near a living encyclopedia or an oracle. To test the point that original and spontaneous ideas are never new, I wrote all of this on my computer disconnected from the internet, in a park, without consulting sources or inspirations. Surely many of my ideas are referenceable; if you know how to reference some of them, let me know.

Sandro Sousa - Instagram

Keeping repeating the words "chic", "avant-garde" or "archival piece" does not make you have taste.

Does knowing a large amount of keywords or clout terms from a given industry or art already make you, in fact, an expert, or does it only build you a facade that makes you look like an authority on the subject?

In certain fields of art, the fact of having access to information is confused with real knowledge or discernment. One can have access to good sources, and on the other hand one can have experiences, verified theses, and cross-checked information. Both one and the other are important, but in my opinion, knowledge or wisdom is something that is proven by doing, not saying; as the saying goes, the proof of the pudding is in the eating.

It is relatively simple to repeat words like "Couture", "Avant-Garde", "Archival piece", "Old money", "Vintage", or to know how to quote Pierre Bourdieu, Cathy Horyn, Raf Simons, or aspects of the work of Rick Owens or Martin Margiela.

Having wisdom about a subject is much more than just quoting, naming, or referencing; a computer can do that, and we do not say that the computer has wisdom, we only say that it can store knowledge; the machine does not know, does not understand, it only repeats when it is prompted to do so. The difference between a scholar (or TikTok pseudo-scholar) and someone who has deep knowledge is precisely the fact of having been able to test everything they know against the practical world. Phrónēsis, or practical wisdom, is what distances the scholar who only stores and repeats from the prudent connoisseur who has mastery because they test the theses they hear and develop.

The same thing happens with the so famous and mentioned "taste"; it would seem that currently having taste is defined as fitting into a preconceived image of what a person with taste is: "you have taste because that is what people with taste look like"; it is like the tabloid celebrity, the one who is famous just because they are famous. Every time I see someone mentioning that another person has it, very frequently this person fits from top to bottom into certain canons or patterns that are repeated in the world of fashion. Having taste goes far beyond looking a certain way; the person with taste is naturally a curator, knows how to gather styles, colors, silhouettes, textures, materials, and concrete pieces, and knows accurately how to put them together and make them work. This goes hand in hand with the above, since the person with taste is usually someone who built their judgment by learning, experimenting, and doing; they have theoretical and practical wisdom.

The democratization of fashion at the hands of the big fast fashion brands has led to a trivialization of certain terms and certain areas of this art. Now everyone can repeat the same trendy "chic" terms pushed by big marketing campaigns, and also have a wardrobe full of garments from the "ready to wear" versions of every prestigious design house or every independent artist whose designs have simply and plainly been stolen to hang them in stores that print them by the thousands a day.

The fact that many people have access to something that before only a few had access to is not intrinsically a bad thing, I do not want to be misunderstood. The problem comes when this is done maliciously and purely out of self-interest on the part of the powerful players in the industry. It is an issue similar to the AI dilemma; as an information-gathering tool it is wonderful; the problem?, that if you ask it for something more than just spitting out information, for example an image, by design it plagiarizes and steals in order to be able to "generate" it. So, is fashion democratized because I, who make minimum wage, can wear some H&M knockoffs of Margiela's Tabis?, or is it that power has shifted hands from designers to those of large conglomerates?

All in all, to my way of seeing, repeating like a computer a specific word or concept that you heard from your favorite influencer or author is not enough to grant you discernment. It is necessary to know what type of stitching, what thread or materials, what style of machinery was used, what social class wore it, and what origin the word had in order to be able to say that a garment is "old money" and to be able to wield the concept with conviction and real knowledge.

Sandro Sousa - Instagram

Now everything is "slow fashion", are they putting one over on you with "quiet luxury"?

What differentiates a 5 € cotton t-shirt made in Bangladesh from a 300 € cotton one made in Pakistan? They have been trying for years to explain to us that luxury in fashion is not the time invested in manufacturing a piece or the quality of its materials, but rather a big, recognizable logo. Luxury cannot be printed, but shhh! That secret is what keeps the big conglomerates afloat and you paying excessively for something you believe gives you status.

Slow fashion is based mainly on conscious purchasing, the intention of keeping the garment for as long as possible. The term "slow fashion" sounds very good, but before we realized that accelerating fashion at all costs, both human and material, is a bad thing, "slow fashion" was nothing more than simply "Fashion". It was simply the way everything worked, the fashion industry was predominantly manual, work was done mostly for a wealthy social class since the concept of fashion had not yet been democratized. Luxury was directly related to the materials used and the time spent on the garment by the artisan or manufacturer, it goes without saying that in most cases and simplifying things a lot, there were only two of what we know today as "collections" per year, one for the cold season and another for the warm season.

The luxury perceived nowadays has changed a lot since those times, now luxury is usually tied to a name, a logo or an artificial scarcity. We have gone from valuing a garment or an accessory for its construction quality and materials and for the time it took hands to manufacture them to simply valuing a drawing or the name on a label without caring in the slightest about construction quality, and where in 3 washes the 300 euro t-shirt does not differ in the least from one from Primark.

But can fashion truly be slow as some brands make us believe?, Is it really possible to go back to doing things like before and go back to valuing what was valued? In my opinion, yes, it is possible. It is possible to put out 2 collections per year, or specific collections for specific events, or for specific clients. It is even possible to launch individual garments or accessories completely ignoring the concept of "disposable collection" that we know today, as a brand, it is possible. Different is as a consumer, I believe it will be very difficult or almost impossible to erase the years of brainwashing by the big houses that today take control of fashion, as well as the consumerist lust of the world we live in.

Let us think about it well, how many cases of true scandal like the 2013 collapse of the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh do we know, not only those of us who are inside this world, but the general public? We all know that the world of fashion is rotten if we talk about mass production, we all know that the democratization of fashion brought with it a destruction of the environment and of the quality of life in the place where the garments that allow this democratization are manufactured. That you can buy a t-shirt for 3 or 5 € is weird, it is suspicious, and most consumers know that, although they ignore it because the average western lower-class citizen has no other alternative and neither does the average citizen of impoverished producing countries.

Different is the world of luxury, prostituted in line with big conglomerates and dragged by fast fashion into having to offer more and more profit margin while wanting to offer itself to empty pockets just as much as still to wealthy pockets. It has made it distort to a point that people now wonder "what is luxury, really". The endemic consumer of "luxury" has not forgotten what it is, they may have gotten confused with the new trends and the new players that have entered the field, but I can assure that, unlike this one writing, whoever is used to living comfortably and knowing the sweet things that money buys knows that luxury is neither a logo, nor an appearance, luxury is time, it is quality and it is above all having comfort and showing that you can live with it.

The separation between the wealthy and the poor has always existed, social classes separated by how much money they have are logically going to access different markets. If we talk about fashion, the fact that someone who earns the minimum wears clothes made by people even poorer than him is not something new. The peasant who barely managed to survive on his harvest had the shoes, pants, or hat that his neighbor or his wife was able to make in their free time from scraps like grain sacks, tires, or abundant materials like esparto grass, this remaining far from constituting a form of income sufficient for the mentioned neighbor. Now we can buy clothes that are equivalent in concept to the ones the peasant used to buy, but which travel much further than what he could have ever conceived in his era.

All of this has painted a rather distorted image of what luxury and fashion are, which is why many brands are trying to stand out by coining terms like "slow fashion", translated, I do not exploit my workers, or "quiet luxury", translated, I offer a product without a big logo or without shouting in your face the name of a brand that may or may not exploit its workers and offer, or not, mediocre qualities. I do not mean by this that all brands or houses that adopt these philosophies should be put in the same bag, not at all, there are those of us who still manufacture, design, and sell from the same room and with totally sustainable materials and techniques. What is certain is that, as a consumer, one has to be even more alert, if possible, given that the big players are willing to take over these terms to sell you essentially the same product stained with exploitation and cheap plastic with a label that is still bulky but says "slow fashion, made with love".

Sandro Sousa - Instagram